Dear Paul and Leisa During lockdown I discovered my hair was naturally curly – who knew? I have spent the last 30 years getting my hair blow dried once a week in my local salon but left it to dry naturally during lockdown and it seems to be getting curlier. My problem is my stylist seems to be at a loss about what to do with it. I would rather have a style that I can dry naturally – I like the curls but when I let it go now it looks frizzy and wild.
Paul says:
If I had a euro for every client who has come to see me over the last 40 years whose reaction is one of absolute shock and disbelief when informed that they have in fact got curly hair, I would be retired by now.
Lockdown certainly taught us a lot more about our hair in its natural state. The ‘new curls’ phenomenon is one of those lockdown realisations that has meant women (and men) have hair that they don’t recognise and are at loss to know what to do with it.
The first thing to establish is just how curly your hair is and what type of curl you have. The famous NYC hair church Bumble and Bumble used to use a paisley pattern on their curl products as they felt like the famous 1960s psychedelic swirl that every curl was individual almost like a fingerprint.
In my experience this is true and although experts will tell you there are certain types of curl, there are many varieties and combinations that all have their own characters and traits.
So before we decide on a style or shapes we must establish how the curl will react — this requires a very experienced hand. Let’s start at the very beginning — to simply let curly hair dry naturally in a style that has been previously cut for smooth or straight hair is unlikely to have a positive result.
Curly hair has to be cut technically and sympathetically to suit your curl. This can only be done after a thorough consultation has established the curl’s full potential. There are as many curly hairstyles as there are any other which is why in my opinion a precision cutting technique is always the preferred solution. Now, there are many schools of thought on this and there is ‘dry cutting method’ that is fast becoming a YouTube and Tiktok favourite but on a personal level iI much prefer to treat every head of curly hair on an individual basis. Like all hair types, your curls are as much about your personality as your style.
Curly hair will always take some adjusting to — it’s wild unruly ways and complete lack of discipline. Curly hair by nature is thirsty and loves loads of attention but ultimately with the right practices and a few simple tricks and habits it can be a time saving, simple get out from hours of fighting with your hair with expensive heated tools and gadgets.
So you don’t want to desert your stylist — you have a great relationship she’s heard your life’s woes, been with you through every break up, job change, highs and lows and you are friends. But here’s the thing — she may know you too well. She may not know this new you who wants to be free of the shackles of routine and GHDs, she may actually not like your desire to break away from the thing that connects you both, the routine of doing what you both have been doing for years without interruption.
So it’s time for new eyes, someone to look at you differently, not just your hair.
Your post-pandemic hair needs to be harnessed and directed. Look around when you are out shopping or at a restaurant if you see someone with curly hair ask them where they got it done, chances are it will not be a perm. Alternatively cut out photos from magazines of hair that you think you’d like, keep a little file on your phone and show them to your current stylist and gauge her openness to change.
Finally start to think about what you really want not just from your hair but the hair experience , the advice , the products and ultimately the results.
So what do you do in the meantime? Everything starts with your cleansing and treatment. Curly hair may not need that much day to day management but it needs care. I estimate that most of my curly-haired clients wash their twice a week max — some as little as once a fortnight. Why?
Well, in general curly hair just isn’t that needy — Leisa and I recommend a curly hair kit ,which is combination of products and some basic tools. A really good shampoo and conditioner for curly hair specifically is Semi Di Lino enhancing low shampoo and enhancing conditioner, which is light moisturising and great for dentangling curls with kindness. Alternatively the Semi Di Lino Hydrating wash is for exceptionally curly frizzy hair, an incredible shampoo that is cream based giving great curl definition that is a shampoo and conditioner in one. It gives heat and humidity protection and is brilliant for busy lives. One thing though — this shampoo does not foam up so don’t keep applying in the hope it might.
I would use the widest tooth comb to comb the conditioner through or for very curly, frizzy hair the Denman tangle tamer or the classic Denman D4. For absolute curl definition shine and lustre we recommend defining cream again by Semi Di Lino, a styling product that does so much more than style your hair as when used with Semi Di Lino curl revitaliser it almost reuses itself without having to reapply. The curl reactivating spray is daily spray that acts as boost to curly hair instead of having to shampoo your hair.
Of course, we can’t not mention in my opinion the best invention in the last 50 years for curly hair, the simple diffuser, a tool so often discarded, ignored and lying unwanted in your bedroom cabinet. For me, the diffusers is one of the most influential items in my kit for drying naturally curly hair quicker with volume and creating shapes that a natural dry simply can’t do — it really is that easy.
Tip your hair after shampooing, with your chosen styling product, make sure hair is saturated, then dry evenly remembering not to concentrate in any one area for too long — you can use your finger tips too. Manipulate the roots to create more volume and be amazed at what you and your curls can do together. My personal favourite is the Gama dryer and diffuser for professionals but the Dyson dryer and diffuser is also exceptional if you are looking for a Christmas gift.
So as the old song goes , Here come the curls!
